January 16th
Very busy times. A Cinderella last night. The Gunners give a mule paper-chase in the afternoon and both Daisie and I are riding battery mules. I hope the results will not be fatal. Daisie is shooting her course with the Army rifle on the range, yesterday she got 5 hits of 5 rounds on the vanishing head and shoulders at 300 yards. Daisie won the paper-chase, riding very well over a lot of jumps and got a gold safety pin as a prize.January 26th
Ordered to Pindi to consult about the Medical Manoeuvres. Left 1.a.m., 27. arrived Pindi 6.30 a.m. stayed at Station.January 30th
I have never in all my career been tied up in such a financial knot as I am now – in fact I am skating on very thin ice indeed. My debts are as large as ever – after Kashmir expenses came Simla expenses, and then sending the children home. Then I had to present a cup £30 to the Mess. Then my instalment of home loan fell due £90. Then all my annual payment in January - also Galfrid's school £14 and Leo's £22. Rose's wages and expenses. Now Kitson says I must pay up the Rs.2200 I owe the regiment. I owe the chowdey Rs.13,000. I am over-drawn in the London Bank, over-drawn in Jhelum, and over-drawn in Lahore. And then, on top of this, Daisie says "Go home for 6 months"!March 5th
I went up to Pindi by the 1.47 a.m. train for the Medical Manoeuvres and where I am to command the skeleton Northern Army. But, owing to rain, had to be put off, so came back last night and return to-night. It is splendid. to-day after the rain.March 11th
Left on Wednesday night - took over command at Pindi on Thursday, fought till Sunday when returned to Pindi, stayed Monday for Pow-wow when Sir James Willcocks said I was the finest fellow in the world, so I ought to get a Brigade some day! Caught a goods train at 1.54 p.m. bribed guard and driver and got to Jhelum 9.15 p.m. Found Bettie still not gone. She goes to-day. Manoeuvres very wet and cold. My fine British soldiers did well and were very cheerful in the rain, all night with no tents. They sang songs and made witty remarks as they couldn't sleep.March 26th
Tea-party with Usbornes and home by boat. Slight earthquake shocks at night are very frequent and rather annoying. Just as well Bettie is not here. Babs barks at them!April 13th
Just got back from our trip. We left with the Usbornes by the mid-night train on Tuesday, arrived Khewra 7.30 a.m., went down the Salt Mines which are very interesting. Then trollied to the foot of Dandot Hill then up the hill by wire rope railway in coal trucks. Breakfast at top, about 2000 ft., beautifully cool. Walked to Chua Saidan Shah, I rode and Mrs. Usborne refused to go in a Dandy or ride, is a bad walker and got in just at dark ready to faint, she is 6ft 3. tall. The Abrahams, our hosts, came out to meet us and gave us tea in the jungle. Saw a splendid snake which escaped up a tree.Next day, Thursday, at the fair, very tiring pottering about - strong man and all that sort of thing and a silly exhibition of native arts and crafts. Saturday morning the Hindu sacred fair at Kitas, fakirs bathing in dirty water etc., very picturesque.
April 18th
When we stayed down the whole summer in 1903 in Mian Mir with Leo, the place was being ravaged by cholera, now we are to stay this summer here and plague is truly raging - the city is nearly empty and there are signs of rats dying, etc, which looks as if it were spreading to cantonments. We are going to give up our bungalow on the 1st, and take the General's house at half rent.May 3rd
We left the old house and came in here the afternoon of May 1st. The Abrahams were coming to stay with us and chose that very day, so there was an awful rush.May 8th
I have been calculating my chances of Brigade Command and make out that I am certain to have a Brigade by May 1917, when I shall be 52! But I want one sooner. One gets so tired and I want to be through with it all. [pencilled note: I got one in May 1915.]May 18th
Last night interesting night operations. It is not very hot. We had a big storm two days ago with hailstones and nights are quite cool. To-day I gave a lecture which was fairly successful, if I may judge by the furious way it has set fellows squabbling among themselves. It was on "Regimental Training" and full of heresies, but not really unsound ones. Our routine - is tea at 6 or 6.30 parade 6.30 or 7.0 and work till 11.0. Then breakfast. Bed from 1.30 to 3.30. Then tea with eggs etc. Dinner at 8.30 and bed at 11.0.May 20th
Full moon and a beautiful night with cool breeze. Our bungalow is only a few yards from the river, so after dinner we wandered down there and felt that Jhelum really was a wonderfully pretty place. The river is a mile broad and in flood now.June 3rd
There is no more obvious sign of national decadence than the admission of the equality" of men (otherwise than from a purely religious point of view) E.G. a Native officer of mine Jemadar Ganda, a Rajput Dogra, a Native gentleman and a good soldier, gives me a long harangue about the advantages of murdering female infants, and tells me the three best methods, strangulation, poison in milk, and burying alive for the newly born. "They soon die" he says!June 9th
Padre went off to-day. Also the General, so now I command the Brigade till we go on leave in September. Heavy rain, a beautiful cool day with doors open. River in flood.June 26th
It got quite unpleasantly hot with the usual result that we yesterday had a splendid dust-storm and rain, and now it is quite moderately cool again, about 106º in the shade to-day. We both keep quite well though sticky, flabby and slack. In the mornings we ride, in the evenings we walk or bicycle to the Club and on Sundays we have dinner parties. We are cheered with good news of all three children. Galfrid has won the Long Jump at Kingswear, Leo is reported on as A.I. at Cranbrook, and Susanna is cheerful and talkative. Calculating from the Army List I do not like the idea of 4 long years to wait for my Brigade. I am keen, but tired of India.July 2nd
Rain and wonderfully cool yesterday. C.B. Williams took us out on the river in his motor launch. Night-March interesting.July 22nd
Frequent rain. Very steamy in between and prickly heat very bad. As the General has decided to return on September 13th we have made up our minds to go to Kashmir then for change of air.July 26th
I suppose we shall soon get a cool spell as the heat is now quite unbearable and one wonders how one can go on living. Our only refuge is in sleep and thank God we are both good hands at that! Prickly heat very bad, I am like a boiled lobster.July 30th
Since I last wrote have had perpetual rain and cool with bungalow open all day. Last night a very successful night march, the last of the season.August 2nd
Oh, the ups and downs of life! Since writing the above we have had, and still are having, the most awful heat spell. How does one survive and why should one wish to? If we live to get home and live retired in the calm of old Devon shall we ever be able to call to mind what it was like to perspire (pouring like a fountain) night and day for some months on end and endure this dreadful prickly heat - the whole of ones body like a diseased lobster?August 12th
Nice and cool still. Startling news in the paper to-day. I expected to continue in command till August next year, when I complete my 30 years - not anxious for the extension, but the Chief told me I was to have it. I pick up to-day's paper and see that Rattray has been I appointed C.O. in my place and Kaye from the 21st to be 2nd in Command. This will be hard on Ducat who expected the latter place as I did for him. To what extent it involves a change of our plans I can't say till I hear if I am to get further employment or not. In any case Daisie is booked to go home second Class Austria Lloyd S/S Gablonz from Bombay, December 1st, so that she may be in England for the children's Xmas holidays.August 20th
The heat is unbearable. Thermometer not so very high - 96º inside Bryce's bungalow and about 102º in the shade. But after these months of prickly heat and perspiration one gets worn out and power of resistance decreases. I am so tired of India and want to get home to see my children. I am one of the few parents who really love their children and my two boys are the best in the world, and yet one has to be for ever separated from them. Before one knows where one is they are grown up men out in the world and forgetting a father and mother they hardly knew.The Military Secretary says I may expect an officiating job in 1914 and Assistant Adjutant General at Army Head Quarters in 1915, that would mean Simla which neither of us care about, but it is a good billet and I shall be lucky if I get it. However, there will be a new Commander-in-Chief by then and one never knows what may happen. What I would like most would be to be told to retire. What joy! The only thing that makes life bearable is my brave wife who endures everything with me and keeps one alive and happy. She has been, of course, the only woman plucky enough to stay down the hot weather.
September 2nd
Children are a perpetual joy and I am very my two excellent sons. I got their school reports to-day and both are very good. But money is no object to them of course and I have to pay "breakages" for both of them. Galfrid has a trifle of 5 shillings and 3 shillings. Doesn't seem to matter what they break when Daddie has to pay. However, boys will be boys and as long as they are happy I am, as I desire nothing else.September 15th
Here we are in Kashmir floating along in our doonga boat, cold and half frozen to death, rain and grey skies - one almost wishes oneself back in Jhelum (but not quite). We packed up and got away from Jhelum by the 12.55 train to Pindi. Got to Pindi about 6.p.m. and started away in tonga - reached Tret at 9 p.m. had a poor dinner and some bad whiskey (made in Bavaria!) and slept the night. Next morning left at 7.30 and got to Murree - the dirty little Sunnybank Hotel - at 9.30. Had breakfast and bath and went off to see Miss Key and then shopping which meant a lot of climbing and running about as Sunnybank is about 1000 ft. below the shops. Dined with Miss Key in her funny little boarding-house. Next day went up and saw the Northern Army Head Quarters. I had never met Malleson before or Vincent. The former clever but not attractive. Saw the Division - Gen. Kitson very nice and wants to know why I don't get a Brigade straight off.Next day, Saturday, September 13th, started in tonga from Sunnybank hotel 6.30 a.m. Kohala 10 a.m., breakfast Garhi 4 p.m. tea Uri 9 p.m. dinner and sleep. 100 miles in 14 hours, rather tired driving all that time, but very pleased to have found the road so good, ponies good and weather fine. It was hot at Kohala, but after that we had rain and it was cold enough. A delightful journey. On Sunday it was pouring, so we waited till it stopped and got away at 10.30 reaching Baramula at 2.30 and had lunch on board Sobra's boat (same as last year) which was waiting for us. Started up stream. Monday, arrived Sopur at 12 noon, and as weather was fine went on and crossed to Ningl. Reached Naid Khai and stayed the night there.
September 16th
At 6.30 a.m., just as it is light they bring us a cup of tea and then the boats start. It is rather nice lying in bed and looking out over the ever-changing landscape with green fields and snow mountains while the water makes that soothing rippling sound. Then, about 8 a.m. I peel Daisie a huge, delicious, juicy pear and eat one myself. Then we lazily get up. Breakfast at 9.30 a.m., Lunch at 1.30. Tea 4.30, Dinner 7.30. Bed 9.30. Walking along the bank in the intervals, a lazy, healthy and restful life. Shadipore nullah was dry, so came via Sumbal. Reached Sumba 12, noon. Shadipore 3 p.m., stopped for night at Shalting below 7th bridge., 7 p.m. Total eclipse of the moon last night at the full, 8 p.m. Daisie just noticed it by accident and called me to see what was the matter with the full moon.September 22nd
This morning we walked up the Takht-i-Suleiman in usual half an hour which is quite good going for 1000 ft. This afternoon we are going to take Mrs. Elliott out to the Dal lake. I have taken a boat with 16 rowers, so we ought to get there pretty fast. On Saturday afternoon we went with Dr. Neve to see the Leper asylum, and spent the whole afternoon among those gibbering remnants of diseased flesh and bone - poor beasts - all ages from 2 to 70, which shows that leprosy may torture you, but you live on. I was allowed to alleviate the dulness of the lives of the 102 lepers by paying for tea all round which cost Rs.5/- not a large. sum if it gave the least bit of pleasure to 102 such afflicted mortals. When we came home we couldn't help feeling rather leprous ourselves - it would get on my nerves if I went there every day.September 23rd
By means of our 17 rowers we managed just to do the whole lake in the time. We left the Dal Gate at 2.30, went to Nishat Bagh then Shalimar, where we had tea, then Nasim Bagh and home by 7.30, when it was cold and pitch dark. The boat went like a torpedo boat and Mrs. Elliott enjoyed everything intensely, which, of course, redoubled our pleasure. The Nishat Bagh was very beautiful.September 25th
We got up early so as to make a good start – Tea at 5.30. Packed up and ready by 6.45, but no tum-tum turned up, so had to send off Ramzana the 2nd boatman to get one and we only got off at 7.50. Reached Nagam, 12 miles, at 10.30 and from here walked 8 miles up to Neve's hut, where we arrived just in time for lunch 1.30. The coolies had not yet got in so we had no knives and forks but we managed with the few kitchen things P.M. had. I had a spoon and Daisie a fork and we shared a knife between us. The food was welcome as we had run into a storm and after being wet through with our climbing exertions, we shivered to death in the cold blast. The coolies came in by 3.30 and we were then able to change into dry things and have hot baths and feel revived.Nil Nag is a small lake about 400 yards by 200 - hills all round, dense young pine forest, except to W., where cultivated, not a strikingly beautiful place, but pretty enough and as quiet as a cemetery. My aneroid, which Buchanan gave me, shows the lake as being 6875 ft. above sea level. The hut is most truly a hut, I think it would even startle Robinson Crusoe! Built of a wooden frame-work filled in with wooden slats and the air-holes stopped with mud plaster. The floor is raised some 3 feet off the ground and through the cracks one sees grass and animals, through the roof at any place one can gaze straight at the sky. A moonlight night ought to be rather uncanny with shafts and beams pouring in at every angle from rooms and walls.
September 26th
We didn't sleep very well. It was very cold and we were much invaded by fauna - rats, mice, cats and dogs, chiefly rats and cats. I had two apples on a chair by my bed-side and a rat rolled one off with a bang in the middle of the night and tried to take it down its hole, but of course the apple was too big and I rescued it. As the apples and pears are practically wild, they grow in the ordinary forest, I should have thought the poor rat might have gone outside and fetched his own without woorying me. The inhabitants of Nil Nag are very noisy. They shriek all night and it worries us. The Indian corn crops are just ripe and they have to sit up all night and yell to keep the bears out. One bear does an enormous amount of damage in a night. 0y bear-shooting days are quite over and I feel no inclination to go out to shoot these very human and delightful animals.10.30 to 1.30 walked and climbed - about 8 miles and 2000 ft. to Yosimarg. Went straight up through the woods along the ridge and round the other side of the valley home. After lunch we bathed in the lake - it was awfully cold, but we enjoyed it after a bit. Then we snoozed till tea-time at 4.30, then out walking till 7.30, when dinner. Dinner is only one course plus soup - this time a rather smallish duck. We were feeling quite pleasantly hungry, so we just cut the duck in half and eat half each. Our meals are very simple. Breakfast porridge and eggs, Tiffin one dish - a stew of odds and ends and for a second course any fruit you like to eat. We generally fill up here on wild apples. Dinner, soup or meat. Bed at 9.30, get up at 6.30. This is quite the simplest simple life. I brought out neither whiskey nor tobacco, having done without both for some time, and we drink water straight from the spring. Water and fruit, early hours and fresh air, one feels so strong and well, and one doesn't know what it means to be tired. Daisie is happy but for her hair falling out, but it has been falling out ever since we married 16 years ago, and there is plenty left. Fleas etc., are not very prominent for a wonder.
September 27th
Started 7.45 a.m., returned 1.45 p.m., a 6 hours' trip. One hour breakfast and rest, the remainder real hard going. First half hour climbed 1200 feet, after that a good deal of up and down till we reached the Yosi gap in 1 hour 5 mins. 7925 ft. above sea. Then down to the Marg, 7575 ft. Then ascend 40 mins. and cross a stream 5 mins further reach a saddle 8575 ft., then 8675 and descend to a small open space of grass with wide stony river bed called Dragdolan - 5 mins. rest and then home. About 14 miles and pretty stiff up and down, first rise 1125 feet to gap, then down 400 ft. to marg, then up 1100 feet to Dragdolan and the whole process reversed on the way home. Splendid weather. The hot sun on the pine needles made that lovely turpentine smell almost over- powering. The road runs through blue pines and higher up spruce. After lunch we swam in the lake which was bitterly cold, but we pretended to like it, then a stroll.September 29th
We went for a walk through the woods to the highest point just East of the Yosi gap, 8275 feet, one of the points chosen by the survey people and therefore a magnificent view - right round the whole horizon a circular panorama of mountains, the biggest in the world. Tatakuti Kolahai, Haramuk and Nanga Parbat 25,000 feet a most magnificent tent shaped peak. Caught big monkeys stealing the Indian corn as we came back through the woods. We were lucky to come on some woodcutters just as they were felling an enormous spruce, we only had to wait a minute and down it came with a crash that shook the ground a long way. After lunch our usual swim in the lake.Great excitement in Jhelum, the rotten old People's Bank (Hindu) has gone broke. I lose the savings of 5 years hard and strict economy, viz 19 rupees!, some advantage in being poor after all, nothing to lose. Elliott loses about Rs.I000, Subadur Dyal Singh 1300, Chowdri Mata Din Rs.I0,000. Our trip up here has been a real honey-moon and very enjoyable - weather magnificent.
September 30th
Packed up and got off at 7.30 a.m. to Chrar to see the holy shrine of Sheikh Nuruddin. Straight across country up hill and down dale, up 600 down 600, up 500 down 700, up 600 and so on, precious hard work. Inspected the school at Chrar, made a speech in favour of education in which I heartily disbelieve, stood the children sweetsmeats, though I expect the Headmaster, who only gets £12 a year and find his own board and lodging, bagged the rupees. Was also bled at the shrine and we left the town eventually, with empty pockets. Had our meal there at 10.30 and started off at 11.15 for Nagam which we reached at 1.15. and found our tum-tums waiting. Got into the boats in the Chenar Bagh at 3 p.m.October 1st
Such a civilized day after our happy time in the wilds. Morning helping the Church of England Zenana Mission (Miss Russell, Dr. Knowles, Miss Newman) to rig up their horrid but necessary Sale of Work, afternoon helping to buy the rubbish and auction the remains.October 2nd
Called on Residency and the parson, Fellowes. Picnic tea with the Neves at Pari Mahal.October 3rd
A restful day. I was thinking that the bachelor portion of the Chenar Bagh was too disreputable for us to remain in when I was served with a notice to quit as ladies are not allowed.October 5th
Early Service. Getting cold. Lunch at the Residency to meet the Commander-in-Chief, Sir O'Moore Creagh, Lady Creagh, General and Mrs. Peyton, Gen. and Mrs. Rimington – a nice lunch and the Frasers are charming people. The Hon'ble Mr. Fraser, the Resident here, and I, have lots to talk about. We last met when he was a very young civilian and I was just recovering from rheumatic fever after landing in India 1886, that was in Nasik 27 years ago! I remember nothing better than the jolly time we had in camp with him, Triss and Henry, May and myself.October 9th
Boats left at 6.45. Reached Pampur (in a storm) 2.15. luckily wind is mostly aft. Halted for night at Kakpur.October l0th
Left 6.45. Arrived Avantipur 10.30. Progress slow, very little water, all sand banks. Pulled up for night by the 27th milestone (road miles)October 11th
Started 5 a.m. Arrived Kombal Bridge 10.45. We started to walk at 2 p.m. and reached Achibal at 4.30. A dusty road and not pretty, with the rice all cut and fields bare - an easy 7 miles. No one in the bungalow luckily. It contains furniture, but no looking glasses and Daisie had to do her hair without. She tried teapot, milk-jug and spoon, but couldn't get much of a reflection. Achibal is extraordinarily beautiful at all times.October 12th
Climbed the hill at back of Achibal 6725 feet, just 1500 to climb, splendid view. Afternoon saw the big, fat English speckled trout that are kept to stock the streams with. Freak flowers - wild Roses, pears in blossom. Beautiful gentians (Kworoo) White pinks.October 13th
Up at 6.0. started 7.20, reached boats 7 miles by 9.10 - exactly 4 miles an hour. We walked fast and timed ourselves by the mile-stones just to demonstrate what a fast pace 4 miles an hour is. You often hear people say casually "4 or 5 miles an hour" and you may take it they are lying. Arrived Awantipur 7.45.October 14th
Started 7 a.m. to climb Wastarwan, an isolated hill 9700 feet high. that is 4700 ft solid climb from our boat. We started from the Awantipur ruins and struck across country to climb the spur that runs due South from the peak, we took a line as if for the village of Nidur and that brought us to the top of the spur 2400 ft. up, at 8.30. We climbed on to 3600 ft and halted at 9.30 for ¾ hour because I was feeling sick and giddy, eat some toast and on again. Reached the top at 11.0. after 4 hours' really stiff climbing with a good deal of nasty cliffs to negotiate. The day was fine and the view from the top worth all the toil, incredibly magnificent. The air was like champagne. Coming down the S.W. spur that leads to Gurpur was awful toil, perpetual cliffs and slippery grass slopes. We had lunch at 1.0., but as I could eat nothing we moved on again at 1.15, and eventually we reached Gurpur at the foot of the hill at 2.30 and our boats at 2.45. We had been on the go for nearly 8 hours, climbed 4700 up and down again, I drank one cup of water and Daisy drank ½ a cup – not liking to finish the bottle when we didn't know what lay before us. Too much exertion, I'm not a bit tired in legs and muscles, but just exhausted. Daisie, as usual, hasn't turned a hair, so to speak, though she did perspire a good deal for once in her life.Set sail down stream at 3 p.m. Kakpur 5.10. It was nice to swallow hot tea and then wallow in a hot bath.
This can end this diary. I think our performance was a good one for me 48, and Daisie 40, and after an enervating hot weather in the plains.
We neither drank anything till 1 p.m. which was 6 hours and then we only had 1½ cups of water between us.
It certainly is a good rule to restrain your thirst till after mid-day and, if possible, till you have done all your up work. Drinking and climbing don't go together - make you sick, and a thirst that later on, nothing can quench. [end of Volume 8, begin Volume 9]
October 15th
Started boats at 6.40 a.m.October 21st
Sailed after tea at 5 p.m. Passed the 7th Bridge and said good-bye to Srinagar for a long time (for ever!) at 6.45 p.m.October 22nd
Started 7.15. Arrived Shadipore 1 p.m. Hajan for the night at 7.0. A large heronry here smelt rather beastly.October 23rd
Started 7.a.m. Arrived Banier at 9.30 and the mouth of the Jhelum where it drops into the Wular Lake at 11 p.m. Here we found the fair way blocked by a big boat that had got stuck and all the up and down traffic stuck on top of it. There has been tremendous cattle plague in Kashmir and all the corpses of course float down to the Wular. Just where we stuck there were about forty or fifty of them, and it nearly killed us. We got by at last, after a lot of digging and wading and shouting and poling, at 12. noon. Our idiot of a cook bought 8 teal the other day and the result is we have been living on teal for 2 days and are quite sick of them. Arrived near Bandipore 3 p.m.We didn't expect much of the Wular it is always low in the autumn and the late dredging operations have, of course lowered it still more - but it really is too awful. The water is the colour of pea-soup and smells. Nowhere can you get near any shore as the mud shelves so gradually - The only way we can land is by using a string of small boats and then we are over 2 miles from Bandipore.
October 24th
Sailed from our mud bank at 7 a.m., and reached Kewnas 11.30. Pottered around finding springs and getting good water. At night we were worried by a Cat, a Bat and a Rat, all one after the other. The Cat nearly got our last loaves of bread.October 25th
A pleasant 6 hour walk with a good deal of climbing and rough going, to Rajpur, then Rampur, then through woods home. The autumn tints are incredible. Pear, plum, apricot and barbery, every shade of scarlet and crimson, nut-trees, orange coloured, mulberry gamboge, willow green grey and yellow, and then the various light and dark greens of pines and cedars. We carry our own lunch which is for each of us 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 slices of bread and butter, 1 pear and 1 small apple - Ample. Home to tea at 4.30 A stormy night and kept awake by the perpetual thump, thump of the waves on the boat's side.October 26th
Did our usual 6 hour walk. Left at 10 a.m. and climbed straight up Radhnar in the Rampur Forest, just 3000 ft. above our boat, doing the height in 2 hours. Then it came on to rain and we sheltered under a pine-tree. Wet with perspiration, and with snow falling on the next hill about 1000 feet higher, and with an icy gale, we lit a fire and when the breeze caught the flames found we were in a fair way to set the whole forest on fire. These pine needles go off just like gun-powder. We ate our lunch with nothing to drink as there was no water and anyway we weren't thirsty. Then a cloud came down on us and I started down a wrong spur. Luckily the cloud lifted and a I saw my mistake, otherwise we should never have got home. Came down by Rajpur and reached the boat absolutely frozen (wet through for some hours) at 4.10 and were very glad of some hot tea with a teaspoonful of whisky in it. Daisie was none the worse, though she had on only a silk blouse and light skirt and came in with her teeth chattering and her chupplies just melted away and had to be thrown away.October 27th
Snow down to 9000 ft - bitterly cold. No wind. Set off 11 a.m. to cross to Sopor. Reached at 3.30 p.m. Cloudy and cold – people, as usual, catching fish – a simple matter.
October 28th
Started off 8 a.m. Reached Baramula at 2 p.m. Got our English mail. Cold and stormy. The Chenars at Dubgao were wonderful - flaming red.October 29th
Goodbye to Kashmir. My first visit here was 26 years ago, and it is much changed. Daisie's first visit was 16 years ago and a lot of change since then, but it still remains the best place for a free life. To-day we did a farewell 6 hour walk, but only a potter. Left after breakfast, taking our usual lunch with us and climbed the hills on the right bank. Not high - about 2500 ft. from the boat.The old. old man, Sobra's wretched father, long ago told me he was cold at night and would like the present of a blanket - he would go to the bazar and get an old one for about 2/8 if I would pay. So I said all right, and he turned up with a 4/8 one and I gave him Rs.5/- and didn't bother about the change. Yesterday he insisted on massaging my legs when I came in altho' I persisted I was not tired and I loathe being massaged anyway. To-day he kept hanging round again and made another effort at my legs, but I was cross and told him to go to the Devil. Then he slowly unfolded his old turban and showed me it was in rags. "How can I pass the winter with an old turban like that?" Then he produced a new one for which he had paid Rs. 2/- would I please give him the two rupees! So the poor old thing has not done badly on the whole.
October 30th
A cold, frosty morning. Our tonga started at 7.15 a.m. As Daisie is going home there were many things to throw away and each boatman got a fine haul of old dresses, cooking-pots and other things. That insatiable old villain! blowed if he didn't run after our tonga whining out that I hadn't given him a warm coat, but that if I would give him just another Rs 2/- he would be able to get one for himself. If he hadn't been so old I would have smacked him. I really think he is "the limit!" All went well all the way, fine weather, good ponies, clear road and empty bungalows. Breakfast at Uri at 11.a.m. and left at 11.25. An old gentleman there was singing "Nazareth" and other gloomy things in a rich and tuneless bass, but it didn't spoil our breakfast. Tea at Garhi and night at Dulai 7.40.October 31st
Left 6.45. Kohala 8.30 Murree 1.30 - Dirty old Sunnybank Hotel.November 1st
Left 7.30 arrived Pindi Station 12.30. Miss Key and Miss Brannan to meet us. Arrived Jhelum 4 p.m. to stay with the Mc.Creas. Very kind of them.November 12th
I never saw anything like Mrs. Mc.Crea's house-keeping. I like very simple food and little of it - here I seem to be eating juicy courses all day long, and I feel so fat I can hardly breath. I'm glad my wife doesn't feed me like that. We left on Monday by the 10.14 a.m. train - all the British officers and some of the Native officers came down to say good-bye to Daisie. Arrived Lahore Nedou's Hotel, 3 p.m. after bicycling miles in the wrong direction. Met the new Lieut.Governor, Sir Michael O'Dwyer whom I knew years ago and whom I particularly want to see about one or two things.November 15th
Yesterday we lunched with the Lieut.Governor and I had a talk with him about Turabaz, and a grant of land for my Saint, Said Abas of Makhad, also about sedition of which he is very hopeful.
We bicycled to Mian Mir and saw our old bungalows - my first station years ago 1886. So dreary and forlorn.November 16th
A sad day and Daisie very tearful. Cathedral service.November 17th
Up early. Daisie left by the 7.40 a.m. for Amritsar and I left at 10.30 for Jhelum.November 19th
Left for Mainwali Staff Tour, a horrid journey, Jhelum 4 p.m. wait 3 hours. Lala Musa, arrived Kundian 3.a.m. and slept under a tree till 7 a.m., reached Mianwali 8 a.m.November 20th
First Day Staff Tour. We are to cross a Division over the Indus in face of an enemy. I am General Staff Officer 1st. Grade to General Campbell, commanding the Division, General Younghusband, General O'Donnell and Miles commanding the 3 Brigades. General Stokes commanding Artillery.November 21st
Actual crossing in ferry boats - out all day. Difficult getting horses in and out, reached Isa Khel at sunset. Sir James Willcocks approves and all goes well. Gen. Hudson is also with him.November 22nd
Riding all day over steeple-chase courses – canal cuts, etc. attack on the Dara Tang Pass.November 23rd
More attacks and all over. Left Isa Khel in the small gauge train at 2.30 p.m. arrived river bank Kalabagh 4.30. Crossed by steam ferry. Small gauge train again for 1 miles to Mari, then change again and via Dand Khel to Makhad Road, where arrived 8 p.m. An enormous dinner waiting for me and a Knattak War Dance of 80 men.November 24th
Rode at 8 a .m. with Ali Khan and Masim Khan to Makhad, 10 miles. A great reception. I have lost my topee so wore a turban which was much admired. Visited the shrines where prayers were offered up for my speedy promotion to General - a lot of old Native Officers. Rode back in the evening and left by train at 9 p.m.November 27th
Chief Umpire at Manoeuvres - to Sanghoi.November 30th
Marched home. No baths all the time and little sleep. We were always on the move before 4 a.m., very fit.November 30th cont.
Daisie leaves to-morrow. She sent me a wire from Bombay all well.December 1st
Daisie sailed on Gablonz at lunch-time - got a wire to say all well but crowded
December 2nd
Manoeuvres. Marched 9.a.m.December 6th
Marched in at 12 noon. A wire from Daisie announcing arrival at Aden this morning. The regiment, as usual covered itself with glory - weather fine and most enjoyable - but very dusty, dirty and sleepless and baths almost impossible.December 10th
Started off on Staff Tour with Sir Gerald Kitson. Down the river in boats.December 12th
Returned from Staff ride to-day after a 22 mile ride - the work was interesting enough and I received nothing but pats on the back. It rained two nights and came through my single-fly tent onto my face, but I put a towel over my head and slept quite comfortably in a wet but warm bed. It is dull work coming home to bungalow with no Daisie in it. I feel how wrong it is to allow oneself to be so absorbed in another person.December 17th
Daisie ought to reach London to-day. We fired for the officers' Annual Musketry Cup and I almost won it. Churchill made 101 and my score was 99. Time goes slowly. I am longing to hand over this burden of lead and fly home to my darling wife and beloved children.December 18th
Went out to Artillery firing and when I got home found Daisie's wire to which I sent a reply.December 26th
A happy Christmas yesterday, though a dull and lonely one with all my loved ones thousands of miles away. I should be a fool not to be eternally happy just in the knowledge of the possession of such a priceless wife and such splendid children. Dined with Mrs. Mc.Crea.December 28th
Mrs. Tighe died at Sea and was buried off Cadiz the way home. Terribly sad for poor old Tighe, what would I feel like. I wonder he can go on living. Heard from Moscow from Nadia, all sorrow and misery, she wants to come to London. Her "husband" won't marry her. Elizabeth Vassilevna died in Munich - altogether a sad mail.December 29th
Daisie's letters arrived. I sometimes wish my old friend, Rudyard Kipling, had not made me famous as "Stalky" in his book of "Stalky & Co." I am quite a quiet and reformed character now, and people are always disappointed because I don't do anything startling.
I get the most awful attacks of giddiness, which my father used to suffer from. Bar this perpetual cough and cold which hurts my chest I am quite fit. but now and then I almost fall on my nose with sudden giddiness.December 31st
Heavy rain, dull day and gloomy. Wakefield, 37th Dogras, tried to commit suicide, but failed. the stupid method of stabbing himself and missed his heart.Well, Good-bye, old year, you have been happy enough and God knows I have lots to thank you for.
Saw the New Year in in a way I do not care about - Playing Bridge at the Barkers.